2.0t TSI Engine Common Problems to Look out for on VW and Audi’s

August 10, 2015
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OBDeleven VAG Com Alternative

 

The 2.0T TSI engine is found in almost all main stream VW models between 2008.5 and 2014.  This is not to be confused with the Audi TFSI (valve lift) engine found in many of the Audi models.  While these 2 engines share some similarities they also have plenty of differences.  If you have an earlier model VW or Audi 2.0T you likely have the FSI engine and you can find the FSI Common Problems HERE.

We put together this list of common problems to look out for, so anyone with a 2.0t TSI engine can be prepared.

 

VW and Audi Models with the 2.0T TSI engine 

VW MK5 GTI 2.0T TSI 2008.5-2009

VW MK6 GTI 2.0T TSI 2010-2011-2012-2013-2014

VW MK5 Jetta 2.0T TSI 2008.5-2009-2010

VW MK6 Jetta 2.0T TSI 2011-2012-2013-2014-2014

VW B6 Passat 2.0T TSI 2008.5-2009-2010

VW CC 2.0T TSI 2009-2010-2011-2012-2013-2014-2015

VW EOS 2.0T TSI 2008.5-2009-2010-2011-2012-2013-2014

VW  Tiguan 2.0T TSI 2009-2010-2011-2012-2013-2014-2015

VW Beetle 2.0T TSI 2012-2013-2014-2015

 

Audi A3 2.0T TSI 2008.5-2009-2010-2011-2012-2013-2014

Audi MK2 TT 2.0T TSI (not TTS) 2008.5-2009-2010-2011-2012-2013-2014

 

 

2.0T TSI  Ignition Coils and Misfire Fault Codes

TSI coil art

If you have having misfire problems on your VW or Audi 2.0T TSI engine ignition coils and spark plugs should be the first place you look.  We also have a more detailed write up on Diagnosing VW and Audi 2.0T TSI misfires HERE

 

2.0T TSI Positive Crankcase Vent (PCV ) Valve Fault Codes and DIY

tsi pcv

If you have a loud whistling noise coming from your 2.0t TSI engine you might have a bad PCV valve.  A bad PCV can also cause Fault code 0171 System Too Lean, as well as others.  Take a look HERE for more info on the TSI PCV issues

 

2.0T TSI Intake Manifold Runner Fault Codes

Check Engine Light-

The intake flap motor controls a flap which is inside the TSI intake manifold.  This motor can often sporadically throw faults for P2015.  Take a look here for more info about TSI Intake Manfold and Flap Motors.

 

2.0T TSI Diverter Valve (DV) Failures

tsi

The Diverter valve or DV holds the boost pressure created by the turbocharger on 2.0T TSI engines.  Many models came from the factory with an earlier version of this part which used a diaphragm which was common to tear.  Take a look HERE to find out about TSI bad DV symptoms as well as fault codes.

 

2.0T TSI High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) Failures

tsi hpfp

While the FSI engine was known to have issues with fuel pumps and cam followers, the TSI engine has some problems around the HPFP.  The TSI uses a roller type cam follower so wearing them is no longer and issue, but High pressure fuel pump itself can fail.  Take a look HERE for more info on TSI High Pressure Fuel Pump failures and fault codes.

 

2.0T TSI Carbon Build Up Problems

carbon tsi

Almost all direct injection engines have this particular issue which is something that anyone with this engine should be aware of.  Carbon build up on the intake valves of your TSI can cause cold start misfires, among many other things.  Take a look HERE to find out more details on TSI Carbon Build Up

 

2.0T TSI Fuel Injector Failures

direct injection Fuel Injector 800x258

 

If you’re TSI is having misfire issues and you have new Ignition coils and spark plugs, then next thing you are going to want to look at is the fuel injectors.  Take a look HERE to find out about Bad Fuel Injectors on VW and Audi 2.0T TSI engines.

 

 

2.0T TSI Timing Chain Tensioner Problems

TSI TIMING CHAIN TENS

The lower timing chain tensioner on the TSI is a potential issue, and it is imperative that any owner should be aware of.  Failing to neglect this can result in catastrophic failure causing engine damage when the engine jumps time.  Take a look HERE for more info about TSI Timing Chain Tensioner Failures.

 

2.0T TSI Water Pump Failures

waterpump tsi

The water pumps on TSI engines are a very common failure item.   Often times they repeatedly fail due to improper installation of the replacement or an oil leak causing premature failure.

2.0t TSI VW/Audi Engine Codes CCTA, CAED, CAEB Water Pump Assembly

2.0t TSI VW/Audi Engine Code CBFA Water Pump Assembly

 

2.0T TSI Evap Purge (N80) Valve Failures

tsi n80 valve

The Evap purge valve often called the N80 valve, sends fuel vapors from the gas tank to the engine to be burned.  This part can often be the cause of “Check Gas Cap” lights on most VW and Audi 2.0T TSI engines.  Find out HERE why the N80 Valve causes “Check Gas Cap” lights on the TSI engine 

 

2.0t TSI In Tank Fuel Pump Control Module

2.0t TSI Fuel Pump Module

 

The fuel pump control module is mounted under the rear seat of your car.  This is  just above the electrical in tank low pressure fuel pump.  This part can overheat causing issues with the vehicle cutting out.

Click HERE to find out why and how the 2.0t TSI Fuel Pump Module Fails 

 

2.0t TSI Coolant Temp Sensor (Grey) 2 Pin 06a919501A

coolant temp 06a919501a

The Coolant Temperature sensor on the 2.0t TSI engine can cause check engine lights and potential coolant gauge issues.  Take a look at the article below to find out more

Click Here to find our How the VW 2.0t TSI Coolant Temperature Sensor Fails

 

 

Paul Barrett

About

CEO | Ex Dealer Technician | VW Audi Parts Savant | Father | Husband | Chipotle Enthusiast
Creating a VW and Audi Parts Company that Cares

171 Comments

on 2.0t TSI Engine Common Problems to Look out for on VW and Audi’s.
  1. Chris P
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    Thanks Paul! I really like all the new ways you have come up with to help out all of us VW owners to troubleshoot issues with our cars. The YouTube videos are really awesome. Because of your mk7 lowering spring video I had the smoothest install ever when I put VWR’s on my new R. Keep up the good work.

      • EDSON CONCEICAO
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        Hello,

        My name is Edson, I am Brazilian and I have a Passat TSI 2010. I have a terrible problem in the car. In the first match in the morning, the car picks up naturally. After warming up fully or run for about 30 minutes if the car is turned off it does not catch. Needing to wait for it to cool to make the catch. You can a traffic jam for hours he does not die, does not show any irregularities in the operation. Since exchanged water temperature sensor, rotation sensor, air flow sensor, mandelic repair the starter. I’ve done tests on low fuel pump, high pump, tests on relays, testing the ground. Now the suspect is in the main injection module. Watch the video that I recorded on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwqmHUMZIJc
        Please if you have solved a problem like this, tell me how it was resolved.
        Thank you

      • |

        Good morning Paul,

        I was getting P0300 P050A and P0301 P0303 codes, went to dealer performed an oil change/ new spark plugs/new coils and a full decarbonization carbon clean-up service all ending up costing me 1300$. Once this was done the car mileage did increase , the check engine light went off, but… when at idle under the pedal, once in a while I still feel the car engine misfiring as it trebbles up and down exactly the same way it did when it was previously misfiring, it just that it happened more often. Could it be because they performed a bad decarb or?
        could it be something else?

  2. Bob
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    Question: My granddaughter’s VW Passat 2008 with a 2.0T low oil pressure indicator has lit twice during cornering, she called me with the issue. I am thinking it could be low oil level. She added oil and is having the oil changed. The car has 115k miles. Are there any know issues with 2.0T oil pickups clogging? She has had the car since early spring and there has been a series of issues that have been addressed more than once by mechanics. There were sparkplug issues, new but wrong plugs were installed when the ignition coil was changed, this work has been done twice. During an oil change, the lube tech over tighten the filter housing cracking it, eventually it leaked. That issue was resolve by installing another new oil filter. Now a couple of months later the engine oil pressure light is coming on. I have the nagging thought these VW 2.0T’s are temperamental engines with questionable reliability. (I read about the timing chain tensioner failures). I am thinking the car should be replaced. In your considerable experience with VW’s do you believe is it a reasonable car for a non-mechanically inclined person with minimal resources to own and drive. ( I also read about the VW bug’s transmission issues).

    • Paul Barrett
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      Tough to say for sure. All cars break and knowing what to expect can be really important as opposed to going in blind. When it comes to the Oil pressure issue, you never mentioned if it was actually low on oil. If you have a car low on oil and the oil pressure light comes on, it just means its working. If the vehicle is consuming oil she will have to keep an eye on it. If it had plenty of oil then you should have the vehicle looked at.

    • Krish
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      I had the same exact problems with my 2008 VW Passat 2.0T that you described. The oil pressure light issue was fixed after the dealer changed the fuel pressure sensor. The filter housing issue was fixed again by the dealer as a local mechanic over tightened the filter housing. The dealer explained to me that you may go to your local mechanic for other maintenance but at least have the oil change done by the dealer as they use a special tool to prevent the cracking of the filter housing. I have been taking my car to the dealer eversince..

    • James
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      Same thing happened with my 2007 VW Passat. I was told that the turbos burn a certain amount of oil and just to keep an eye on the level and fill as needed.

  3. Julian
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    Question: The engine light keeps coming up with code P12a2. I have tried fuel cap and that’s pretty much all I’ve tried since I’m not sure
    what else to look for. Any ideas based on your experience on what the problem could be related to? Appreciate any ideas or suggestions.

    • Paul Barrett
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      This fault code is generally not associated with the Evap system which would be related to the gas cap. If you can get me more info on fault code instead of a generic P fault that would be more helpful.

  4. John H
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    Thanks this is a wonderful resource!

    I can’t find my coolant temp sensor on my 2009 VW CC 2.0TSI. Do you have a video or description of the actual replacement?

    Thanks again!
    John

    • Paul Barrett
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      The coolant temp sensor is in the waterpump and is located under the intake manifold.

  5. Jared
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    I have a 2010 jetta tsi 2.0 cbfa. Recently I ran over a large tire (no rim) I knocked off a boost hose and that was it. I took it to a body shop and they had their garage check it out. Said everything was good. Here’s where I’m stuck. When they gave it back it would never heat up and fans ran all the time. After about 3 days of driving it’s back to normal but I have a MIL on for “engine temp to low”. The inside gauge reads normal and I have heat. I replaced my water pump assy about 15k ago. No leaks however on my water pump assy there looks to be a sensor that is not plugged in. It’s on the bottom hose coming out of the thermostat it looks like. The main one off the the top left is still plugged in. I can’t find any spate wires. Any ideas would be super helpful

    • Paul Barrett
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      You have to address the fans running all the time and the fact you have an connector unplugged. My advice would be to bring it to a VW specialist to help you track down whats going on, as it seem the bodyshop may have missed somethings.

  6. noor
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    i have car vw sharan tsi petrol 2011 now i have to add every 1000 mi 1 later oil do you think this is normal please can you advise me or this is manufacture engine problem

    • Paul Barrett
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      Im sorry this is a non US model so we dont have any info on that.

      • Judi
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        I have a Turbo 2.0 Volkswagon Tiguan.

        My oil light is going on and off. It shows oil pressure engine off! See owners manual. Is this a censor or could this be a more serious problem? By driving my vehicle will it cause other major problems. The car is not hesitating and seems to be driving okay but the light will go off and on.

        • Paul Barrett
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          You should not assume this is a sensor issue. You should check out the source of your low oil pressure.

    • J
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      VW Turbo’s burn oil especially if you drive over 2,800rpm. It is normal to keep adding engine oil. Use Liqui Moly 5W40, other oils will burn much faster.

  7. Nancy
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    Hello!
    I own a 2012 gti turbo (Gas ) that I bought new. I have recently been experiencing problems with it dyeing after it has been driven for 30 -45 min. Then stopped and sat for 20-30 min. It will start and idle fine until I place it into gear to drive away, never getting far it dies. When I try to restart It , it acts starved for gas spurting spurting only to die. It will only start back up after it has sat for 20 plus min. then runs like nothings wrong. Note: there are NO check engine lights on dash at any time before, during, or after. It has stalled out on me a total of 6 times in 4 weeks.

    The first mechanic (not a Dealer) had me do a decarbonation and throttle body cleaning. (This was 3 days before I received my Recall notice for the ECM reboot and High Pressure fuel pump warranty extension). It died the next day!!!

    The 2nd Dealer mechanic “Flashed” the computer and said that all my problems should be fixed. NOT!!! It
    died the next day and a few more times after that!!

    The 3rd Dealer replaced the High Pressure fuel pump. It to died the next day, twice. ALL mechanics tested the system and only the last 2 found the P0087 readings for low fuel pressure. I am at my wits end and would like some advice if any please.. Im thinking its a sensor problem like the one on the fuel pump. But thats just a guess. Any thoughts?

      • Mark Bernard
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        On a 2008 Passat Wagon 2.0T, no issues idling, none accelerating, but at approx 50 mph running at 1500-1600 rpm there is a slight engine “studder” where you kinda feel the car accelerating and backing off…every so slightly and you’ll notice a 200 rpm flux on the tach. If I accelerate a little faster or go a little slower it does not happen. I also notice in sport mode when the idle is a little higher at 50 mph this does not occur. Any thoughts at all?

        • Paul Barrett
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          Sounds like a misfire but you will need to track down why its happening.

    • J
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      You have a bad fuel pump. There is a cylinder inside the fuel pump, when that starts to diminish, it’ll throw misfire codes. For now, check the fuel pressure with a portable gauge.

  8. Ryan
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    My friend has a 2008 Passat 2.0L and I’m trying to help him with his oil and coolant leaks. I’m fairly certain the oil is turbo return line, and coolant is a gasket from some kind of sensor in the lower coolant pipe on the left side of the car. Is this a temperature sensor? pressure sensor? something else entirely? I can see the gasket has come out of its place in the pip/sensor.

    Thanks,
    Ryan
    Former Volvo master tech.

    • Paul Barrett
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      Tough to say. Send us an email with a picture and we can take a look.

  9. Levi k
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    I have a 2010 passat 85k miles. It dropped a valve in cylinder 3. Dealer said they would replace the motor for $8000. I would prefer replaying my head and mangled piston. Where can I buy a head for this engine?

  10. Matt N.
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    Ok so my mkv jetta has forge wintake, full cat less dd42 turbo back exhaust, pwrhaus diverter spacer to atmosphere, updated diverter valve from volkswagen, black forest industry catch can, and the unitronic stage 2 tune. So here is my issue I’m hoping someone can shed some light. Under hard acceleration the sometimes is a complete loss of power and other it’s more like a hicup. Not so much a missfire. As in I will be flooring it in 2nd or 3 and for about 3 seconds it’s like the car dies and than comes right back. I have an autel maxidas 708 and pulled the codes. Using generic obd I get codes p2096 – post cat fuel trim to leab and p2271 o2 signal stuck rich bank 1 sensor 2. Than if I use the volkswagen one I get completely different codes. 8342 – post cat sensor correlation bank 1, 8817 – o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2, 807 – nock sensor 1, 807 – nock sensor 1, 136 – fuel rail system pressure.

    So I watched block 140 for high pressure pump. At idle it was 39.7-40.5 bar when I raised the ram the pressure would go up but than drop to 35 +- 5 bar. This was all not moving. I’m thinking my hpfp but they are not super cheap so if someone had any other test or recommendations please give me some input

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Im sorry but we cant offer much advice on this. It looks like you have O2 sensor issues but its really tough to say for sure. You should bring it to a VW specialist to have them help you diagnose it.

      • Aweda Oluwatoyin Jamiu
        |

        Good day,
        Am Volkswagen Technician, I have worked with Volkswagen Dealer here I Nigeria. My most challenge I normally have here is genius parts.
        I will be glad if you can be of help to serve my customer better.
        Looking forward to your response.
        Thanks.

        Aweda Oluwatoyin Jamiu.

        Jamiu Auto Service.

        • Paul Barrett
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          Im sorry we dont ship outside the US at this time.

    • Trevor Kuenzi
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      Your Emissions, o2 sensor, and CAT codes all are more than likely related to your downpipe, especially without a CAT. If you get a stage 2 APR tune, these codes will go away, and if you still have a CEL or issue, it will probably be in that 136 fuel rail system pressure. But honestly, APR is a better tune anyways, i would ho with that first.

      • Paul Barrett
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        Trevor. He already has a Stage 2 tune which means other software is not going to make it any better.

  11. Jeff
    |

    Hi –

    First of all thank you for running such an informative and helpful site. I hope you can help me with my problem, and that you have a part that I can buy and install myself to fix it. I have a 2012 GTI with approx 40k miles on it. It has run flawlessly up until two times within the last week.

    Twice, over the last week, when the engine is warm and has been running for 20-30+ minutes, and then parked for 15-30 minutes, I had issues upon restart. When cranking the car, it cranked, but then when putting it into reverse the engine cut off. It would then take 45 minutes and a minimum of 30 cranks to get it running again. The car would turn over; battery, alternator and starter are all fine. The engine would anywhere from 5-10 seconds and then die.

    After the first instance, I took the car to the VW dealership and they kept it for 3 days, but could not replicate the issue. They stated it threw no codes, and performed a fuel pressure test – also came back fine. They were great and because they could not find anything wrong, they waived the $105 diagnostic charge. Since then, it happened one other time.

    I could not find much online, but since it seemed like the engine was struggling to get fuel in both instances I replaced the fuel filter in case there was debris inside.

    Does this sound like it could be anything else to you? Both times it happened, it was after shifting into reverse (which also seems to work fine in every other use) – think this could be related?

    Thanks in advance for any help or guidance, I am hoping not to get stranded in a tough situation and would rather try to fix the problem!!

    Jeff

  12. Alex
    |

    Hi,

    Great article! I have brought my 2014 TSI SE Passat in for service 3x now for the same issue. When driving, the gas pedal feels like it’s puttering. I step on it and it’s as if the car doesn’t want to go. Check engine light came on along with traction control light. Brought it in for service, nothing wrong. The car did it again 3 days later, I brought it in, and a coil was bad. 3 days later, and the same issue is reoccurring. The service department has had my car for 4 days and can’t get it to duplicate. According to them they can “only go by what the computer says” and not with their intuition. So frustrating. So basically, the coil was most likely bad the first time around but since the computer did not pick it up they can’t fix it. I’m scared to drive the car since it is nearly impossible to get the speed up enough to even drive on a highway. Any idea what else it could be?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Alex yes if the dealer cant duplicate the problem there is nothing they can do. It could be a coil but there is nothing that we are going to be able to educate a dealer on when it comes to this. Also keep in mind your vehicle has a 1.8T TSI which is not the same engine. This engine will have its own problems which may or may not be related to the ones listed above for the 2.0t TSI engine.

  13. Gar
    |

    Hello, So glad I found this forum. I have a 2011 WV Jetta 2.0L engine (48,000 miles) that just started with the crank, no start issues. First time, it wouldn’t start (engine would crank) for about 30 minutes and then started up fine. A couple of days later, went to the doctor from home and the car won’t start (engine would crank) and then started about 15 minutes later. Car was fine for a few days then stalled when trying to turn on a busy road. Started about 10-15 minutes later and been fine ever since (4 days). The weather was cold but not rainy. Left the car with my mechanic who tried to duplicate the issue with no results and checked under the hood. There are no codes so everything looks OK…until it is not. I have seen a few people who had their ignition coil replaced which helped/fixed the issue, does this should right?

    Thanks.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Do you have the 2.0 turbo engine or non turbo?

  14. adam
    |

    HI, looking for some advice regarding my car this has turned into a nightmare and any expertise or advice that you have on the matter would be greatly appreciated.(its an A3 sportsback s-line special edition 2.0tfsi quattro)

    I took my car to a VAG specialist independent garage in august/september last year, following it showing bad symptoms running and sounding rough.

    the report on findings ” Investigated engine misfire and found crankshaft bracket had detached which had caused damage to various parts of the engine & bracket became lodged in oil pump. complete engine rebuild with re-con bottom end and pistons, refurbished top end rebuild from original head. found dual mass flywheel had excessive play due to above damage so new clutch and flywheel fitted.”

    after the car being with them for about a month and half and a bill for £2965.00 i finally got the car back.
    I followed the exact instructions given to me in terms of driving the car and the running in period, did not take the car over 3500RPM for the first 500-1000 miles.

    when i first got the car back my clutch felt strange and i was told that it would as it was wearing in. my gears seemed not to go in as smoothly as they normally would when selecting on gearbox, felt as though there was a slight notchy feeling before fully going in, was told maybe linkages nothing to worry about, bring back the car if further issue.

    1 week after getting the car back i had covered over 600 miles and took the car back for its oil change and service as advised. i was then told by the mechanics that i could take the car over the 3500RPM but to obviously not go “too high”. I drove the car home as normal and did not exceed 4000RPM, The following day i was driving and could hear that every time i took the car into turbo around the 4000-4500RPM a weird noise coming from the car, then a very loud bang. stopped the car immediately, and on inspection found that the exhaust had broken.

    the exhaust had infact broken at the flange joint located directly at the back of the engine bay. it had completely sheared off from the joint, so the square piece of metal with bolts in was still attached to the engine and the part of the pipe that starts to be cyclindrical exhaust pipe had cleanly sheared off this is located just above the large flex pipe. I took the car back to the same garage to be told that because on this model of car that section of pipe includes the CAT converter and would cost in the region of £1200 and they were not excepting any responsibility for the damage. i found this to be unreasonable as that was the exact place where they would have been taking the exhaust on and off the engine while doing the rebuild.

    As the cost of previous work was so high i was not financially able to pay that amount, i sought expertise else where, after going to numerous custom exhaust specialists, i ended up having a de-cat system put on the car, they welded their exhaust pipe on from the flange joint that had snapped. i was also told that because of the size of the pipe and the type of metal that had broken, it would have had a crack in it or tremendous pressure on it for it to have broken, i.e that questions should still be asked to the garage that did the original work on the car.

    About 5-6 days after getting the car on the road again the red oil pressure warning light coming up on the dash intermittently took the car back to the VAG independent who had done the rebuild, to be told t was probably a faulty sensor, as it ad just had a new oil pump and various other bits and not to worry.

    I was then still experiencing issues with the” glitchyness” of the selection of gears in the box and the clutch. The oil pressure light coming on more regularly, i took the car back to them again, they bled the pressure in the clutch and it felt slightly better but gearbox still felt strange and started to have real issues selecting 1st/reverse. Told me they had solved the oil pressure.

    some days later again oil pressure light going on noticed there was a correlation in which it was happening at around 1500revs in 4th or 5th, so when going slow in a high gear. The gear selection getting really bad. If ever in traffic if 1st was selected and then clutch was up roll forward and had to stop again (so there was no movement to 2nd), so clutch is just going up and down rolling forward, when it was time to change to 2nd the gear stick was literally stuck to the point have to pull it with some force to get it out. These symptoms have been on going.

    so i then took the car back to the garage again and ask that they look into the gearbox as i am to believe when they had fitted new clutch there was definitely something wrong that had led to this issue and to also solve the oil pressure light.
    They assured me they would do an oil pressure test on the car and investigate thoroughly.

    I receive car back with a bill for gearbox fluid and notes to the affect: ” carried out gearbox fluid flush (metal in gearbox) internal gearbox fault.” no evidence of new oil sensor on invoice but verbal confirmation of work being done.

    On the drive home oil light goes off again and i am now having “owl like” sounds coming from my turbo.

    Go back to the same garage (not so happy as you can imagine) get into conversation with person in charge. who tells me my gearbox is as a result of my poor driving and the exhaust completely shearing off was to do with “back pressure” i argue my case that i do not believe this to be true, but was told in uncertain terms to “sod off”. i left the car there again for the oil pressure to be investigated and solved.

    Next day i go to get my car back and have a invoice; changed oil pressure switch and put engine flush, and complete engine oil change at no cost.

    with a note underneath ” metallic debris and filings found in sump, oil filter partly blocked by metal particles. oil system flushed and refilled with new oil. engine has been run outside safe operating limits, damage caused by ause will not be covered under warranty”

    As you can imagine at this point i am losing my patience, as this mechanics argument of the freshly rebuilt engine running 200bhp not mapped or modded in anyway has managed to produce so much back pressure it has blown its own exhaust off (which i have had to pick up bill for else where) is refusing to take ownership of gearbox which is hard to prove but now stating there are serious issues with the car internally that he is not willing to cover as “he” believes i have driven the car hard? is this a relevant defense for him?

    i have emailed the garage and sent a formal letter;

    “I am concerned with the items Paul gave me on 8th Jan 16 being the piece of metal found in the oil and the state of the oil filter, which is contaminated with metal filings.

    Clearly all is not well with this rebuilt engine and I suggest it never has been, as it was returned to us with an oil pressure warning fault being present. This oil pressure fault was reported to you several times and the vehicle has been back to you on a number of occasions to determine the cause and to fix this problem as well as others. This has not been done as I have to report that the oil pressure warning light is still coming on.

    Your original diagnosis was
    ‘found crankshaft bracket had detached which had caused damage to various parts of the engine & bracket became lodged in oil pump, complete engine rebuild with re-con bottom end and pistons, refurbished top end rebuilt from original head’.

    The information supplied in the invoice does not mention oil pump, shells, bearings, or any of the items that would have been replaced as standard in an engine rebuild especially given the nature of the above diagnosis. This suggests they were included in the ‘re-con bottom end’

    However you have told me that you fitted a replacement oil pump, which was different to the type it replaced and that the sump oil pickup pipe and strainer were changed.

    The turbo is making a ‘different’ sound, this was reported to you by a staff member when the vehicle came in to you last Thursday 7/1/16. Is this due to lack of oil pressure or the fact that the oil is contaminated with metal?

    I don’t accept that the presence of metal in the oil is in any way due to how the car has been driven, ‘over revving’ would not cause this and in any event it is not possible to over rev the engine. It is clear that there is and always has been an issue with the repair for which you are responsible. I am aware that the Supply of Goods and Services Act 1982 states that work of this nature should be carried out in reasonable time and with reasonable care and skill. However, I do not believe this to be the case with the service received.”

    and recieved this as a response;

    The engine was supplied to us as a fully rebuilt bottom end including all bearings and the oil pump conversion. The oil pump failure is a common problem on these and other Audi engines, and the replacement pump is known to be more reliable.

    The cylinder head was refurbished for us by a specialist company in Coventry that I and the previous owner of T & H Motors have been using for around 20 years.

    The car was given an extended road test after the engine was replaced and another road test last week after the oil flush, we have not witnessed the oil light coming on so clearly we have not been able to reproduce the conditions that Adam is experiencing. It is worth noting though that when the car was returned to us after 500 miles for its first oil change, the oil we removed was clean and completely free from contamination indicating that it had been run in properly although we must all acknowledge that it has not been treated quite so sensitively since then.

    We hold a 6-month warranty on the parts supplied so if they are faulty there will be no problem getting them put right however the first step clearly is for us to have the car back, remove the sump and carry out a full inspection of the bearing shells and oil pump. Please be aware that the car will need to be with us for a number of days.

    The turbo noise is no surprise to me. Adam has had a sports exhaust system fitted to the car (without catalytic converter I believe?). This will have completely changed the exhaust characteristic, reduced the back pressure on the turbo outlet and potentially introduced harmonic resonance that will impact on the turbo bearing. We checked the bearing as far as possible when we first replaced the engine but if there has been significant wear since this could cause reduction in oil pressure, excessive oil consumption and wear both in the crankshaft bearings and at the top end of the engine in the valve guides (due to the reduced oil pressure). The sports exhaust also increases the engine output so will in any case increase wear rates although not to the extent that we believe is indicated by the metallic particles in the oil.

    I suggest we get the car back as soon as possible so that we can inspect the bearings and pump, and then we can discuss the best way to proceed. Please be assured that if we find any fault with our original work we will put it right at our own cost.”

    I am now looking to reply to this garage, can you give me any advice on how to proceed? i have been advised that their argument surrounding the new exhaust is basically them trying to get out of their responsibility and i require some expertise on how to counteract the mechanical reasoning and jargon that they are implying.

    Many thanks for reading this and seeing the journey/ ordeal i’ve gone through, the car had 1 owner and full Audi Dealership service history when purchased i’ve been rather unlucky with this one.

    Any reply you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      I would have recommended replacing the engine in that situation, but it sounds like they were trying to save you money. Often times trying to save money can be more costly. The bottom line is that it was either a bad rebuild job or the engine had other issues post rebuild causing the later problems. We have no way to know which one is that case. Im sorry to hear about your troubles and I hope you get this resolved.

  15. Alan
    |

    Ok Adam, firstly sorry the workshop is spewing out much weird theories .My recomendation would be to swop complete engine, .Please find out from a reputable workshop with good references in your area, look at breakers yards only buy with warranty and best to make sure engine is sound.

  16. Josh
    |

    HI Paul,

    I’ve got a 2011 VW Jetta Comfortline that has been puzzling me since mid-November 2015. What I mean is:

    – At times, when I try to start the car, it cranks and cranks but doesn’t start. At other times, it cranks and starts up just fine. During those instances where I can’t get it to start, I need to leave it from anywhere between 5 to 20 minutes (so far) and then it cranks and starts up okay.

    – As I live in northern Canada, I usually start up my car and leave it running for 15-20 minutes to warm up before I drive. On a number of occasions now, I return to find my engine stalled. It usually starts back up okay, though there have been times where it cranks and doesn’t start for a couple of minutes. There was one time where this happened (left it running for 15/20-stalled-started up again), and a few minutes into driving my car, while depressing the gas pedal, I felt like there was no petrol going to the car (my foot was depressed all the way down and nothing!). Some 10 seconds later, when I tried again, it gave a slight jerk and kicked the petrol back in. Strange. It’s never happened since, but…

    – …I’ve noticed ever since I’ve had these intermittent issues that my Jetta doesn’t quite have the same oomph as before. Granted, its a 2.0L, four-cylinder engine, so it isn’t a beast, but it seems to drive more sluggishly than usual, I’ve found.

    As to what I’ve done:

    – In early-December 2015, I replaced the battery, the fuel filter and had nothing come up with a friend’s high-end diagnostic tool. The fuses are fine. I changed my oil, oil filter and air filter in mid-October 2015, and have run <2,000 kms since then. I live in northern Canada, where it is stupidly cold, but have always plugged in my block heater – even when it was only -5C or so.

    – I wondered if it may have been condensation in the fuel line (what someone told me) so I popped a bit of fuel-line antifreeze into my petrol tank, but the problem persisted.

    – I took my vehicle to Edmonton in mid/late December 2015 (nearest city with a VW dealership; a 900-km roundtrip) where they couldn't replicate my issues at all. They inspected my spark plugs (fine), scanned vehicle for codes (nothing), tested wires for proper voltage (okay), tried replicating the issues on a cold start/hot start and every time came up fine. They even kept the vehicle for 3 weeks (until early-January 2016) and – nothing! Of course, as soon as I got it back to the city I live in, it starts doing the same thing. And, of course, I got a big fat VW dealership bill for it. *sigh*

    Anyway…

    I've been reading, Youtubing, Googline online of what all of this might mean, and I am wondering if it might be my fuel pump on its way out. A few mates who are car-savvy (and who I related all that I said here) suggested it as well.

    Personally, I want to get my fuel pump replaced to negate one more thing that might be an issue, but it is pricey (not to mention a 900-km roundtrip), so I was hoping to get your thoughts first. I'm really at a loss here. It's worse still when your car is doing this when it's -20 to -30C outside.

    Again, Paul, I'd appreciate any advice or your thoughts.

    Thanks for your time,

    Cheers,

    Josh

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Josh

      Sorry to hear about your troubles. Unfortunately the 2.0 non turbo engine is not very common so I dont have much I can offer you in regards to common issues. They best thing to do would be to leave it with a dealer until they can duplicate the issue and track down whats going on.

      Sorry I dont have anything better to offer you.

  17. |

    Will I get better service out of the Audi 3.o V6 engine? Will I be able to service it myself as I usually don’t care to have others under my hood unless absolutely necessary.

  18. immanuelmwatukange@gmail.com
    |

    i have a AUDI A3, 1.8TFS, 2007 , Sudenly while driving, it have just started give black smokes from the exhoust, and the engen oil are getting finnished, what will be the matter in that case? Can i put any turbo in this car like of other cars e.g for a 2.0 vwgolf gti?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Sounds like you are burning oil. You will need to figure out where from and then fix then.

  19. Kristina
    |

    Hi Paul,

    Any expertise you can lend would be greatly appreciated. I apologize in advance for the ramble and hope you’re able to follow.

    I have a 2010 VW CC Sport that I purchased last March. Since then I have had a repeated issue with the oil- basically every three months or so, my oil completely burns off. There’s no leak, no noticeable smoke. The only way I know that my oil is low or mostly gone is that the “turn off engine immediately and check oil” message comes up. When this happens I pull over. Shut off the engine and check my oil always to find it crazy low.

    I took it in to the seller and they weren’t able to find any leak or anything noticeable so they just did an oil change. A couple months later, it happens again so I take it to a VW dealer after topping it off with oil since it was bone dry. Again, nothing noticeable so they figure the selling dealer didn’t do it correctly. Since it was under warranty, the dealer I purchased it from paid for this.

    Three months later, same thing happens so I take it in again and they diagnose that the Turbo needs to be replaced and they do yet another oil change as it was needed. All seems fine and dandy until last Friday (5 months after replacing the turbo) the problem happens again. Just took it in to the VW dealer and now they’re telling me the engine needs to be replaced $7,500. So all in all this all costs about $10k.

    What is causing this issue to keep happening?? I’m currently in the middle of the two dealers as the same issue has persisted with nothing fixing it which means it SHOULD be covered. Of course no one involved wants to drop $7,500 on this car. Any idea what’s going on with the car? Doesn’t seem worth the money. But I love this car.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Sorry but this seems like a complicated situation that requires intimate knowledge of the vehicle. This is only something someone who looked at the vehicle could tell you. Sorry about your troubles hope it works out for you.

    • Dub
      |

      I’m not sure what the problem is but i just wanted to let you know i know your pain. I have a 2012 VW GTI that i bought New it has been in the shop for what sounds like the excact same issuse your having. I haven’t been able to get an answer either. Which leads me to believe this is a VERY big problem and VW doesn’t want to own up to their issue’s with their car’s. Also i have had many other vehichles with 150,000 to 250,000 miles that have a lesser to no problems. Compared to a car i bought with 0 Miles on that has been to VW for repair more then 10 times, for major issues.

      Please let me know how it turns out for you. I loved my VW GTI when i first purchased it. I still love the way it looks and handles but i would trade that in for something i didnt have to check the oil on every 5 min just to make sure it still has oil.

      My Advice to anyone DON’T BUY A VW THEY NEED TO STOP MAKING PEOPLE PAY SO MUCH FOR CARS THAT OFFER SUCH ISSUES IT IS UNACCECTABLE.

  20. tony
    |

    2012 gli MT, APR stage 1, sounds like the stock diverter valve is releasing pressure under moderate acceleration, and throttle position. Acceleration hesitates as the pressure builds and releases. No codes. Is this a diverter valve issue or MAF sensor or other issue?

    thanks,
    Tony

  21. Sebastien
    |

    Hi Paul ! I have a Tiguan 2014 with less than 14 000 km 2.0 tsi. My coolant level is 1 inch under the low limit. It is normal ? Thank’s for your help !

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Check to see if you have leaks if you dont I wouldnt worry about it too much. Just keep an eye on it to see if it continues to drop

  22. Riaan
    |

    Good day Paul,

    First of all thank you for the informative information, its has been a great eye opener and help to prevent those costly “wear and tear” issues Audi fails to inform their customers about.

    I recently bought a well look after 2007 A3 2.0 FSI 9300km on the clock with full service history at Audi, and just want to know if the following preventive maintenance items are on the list

    1) Carbon cleaning (not done by previous owner/audi)
    2) Need to replace ignition coils (not done by previous owner/audi)
    3) The rest of standard maintenance items have been done (spark plugs, filters, cambelt etc.)

    The query I have is as follows:
    1) When the car is idling it experiences light repeating jerks/pulses, the rpm’s however do not fluctuate while this is happening. Any idea what can be causing this.

    Thank you for all the assistance. It means allot.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Tough to say could be either 1,2 or neither. You should address the known problems first.

  23. Steve
    |

    I am going to save this article… ok I have a 2012 gli and while driving I went through a puddle and herd a hiss noise like pressure being released from somewhere and now it sounds like there is a squeel that is not coming from the belt and only happens at 3000rpms and above my thought is a dv but I’m not sure and I don’t want to take it to a shop as I work on my own vehicles how do I test it any thoughts would be helpfull

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Sounds like it could be PCV valve related. You should take a look at that article.

  24. russell
    |

    hello, I have a 2008 gli with the bpy engine and dsg transmission with 166xxxkms. recently after the car has warmed up to op temps and when coming to a stop the engine rpm drops too low causing it to stall. I scanned car with vagcom, no codes stored, no check engine lights. I have changed the following parts with no avail. Crank pos sensor, N80 valve, OEM parts from dealer, cleaned throttle body,did a throttle alignment with vag com, the problem is still there.i can get it to stall in park or neutral aswell if I give I a god rev and let it idle it will stall. although when I have the ac system on it doesn’t stall out the car due to the increased rpm. I really don’t like throwing parts at cars to fix them but this is driving me batty. any insight or advice would be of huge help.
    thank you. Russ

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      This could be fuel pump/module related or a vacuum leak. The fact no codes were stored leads me to believe that its probably a fuel system issue. You will need to investigate further to track down the specific component.

  25. Priscilla
    |

    I own a 2010 passat CC, and I am having to repair the fuel injectors twice in the last 3 years. VW has acknowledged that they had a problem with the injectors. Is it normal to have a problem every 1000 miles? Also, is commend to replace all four?

  26. Sabin
    |

    Hello I have 2012 Volkswagen Eos convertible and everything working fine but the convertible is not working and I think I have to replace new battery so I disconnect the battery and get new one and I installed after that the back trunk pump that operated convertible didn’t work plus it stop making noise that and also when I try to operate the convertible the pump is not responding

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      EOS tops are complicated you will want to have a VW specialist take a look at this to make sure everything is operating properly.

  27. Scott
    |

    Hi Paul. Thanks for an informative website. Here’s my issue.

    2010 VW CC Sport, 2.0T, manual transmission. When driving, I will depress the clutch pedal to shift gears, and the engine RPMs seem to take an extra long time to drop. For example, traveling at 30 MPH in second gear, depress the clutch/release the throttle to shift to third, and the RPMs seem to hold at ~3000 before slowly decreasing. This happens at any time, whether shifting up or down, engine hot or cold. It seems that the throttle is sticking, but the pedal moves freely. Any ideas what to look at? Thanks!

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Tough to say for sure you will likely need more diag to track down your issue. Could be PCV or Throttle body related but those are guesses at best. Get with a VW specialist who can help you.

  28. Mike
    |

    Thanks for all your work and supportive comments throughout the site Paul. I have a 2010 GTI, stock, 75K miles, and manual trans. For the past 2 months/~5k miles I’ve been experiencing an acceleration issue that is not throwing a CEL or VAG fault codes. Low RPM acceleration is jerky and it seems to hesitate at times when steadily accelerating — especially when the engine is cold. I also get some slight hesitation at high RPMs when suddenly accelerating. Cold engine idle seems slightly off but nothing overly noticeable and warm idle seems to be fine.

    It’s been to the dealer twice and one independent mechanic and nobody can figure it out. Some feel the issue when testing driving and others do not. I can feel it every time I drive it and can easily re-create the situation where the issue is most obvious. After reading through all the possible issues on your site and having not experienced a fault code it seems like it could be anything at this point. I’ve followed the VW maintenance schedule to the letter including the replacement of plugs and coils around ~65k miles. I’m aware of the fuel injector/manifold extended warranty and the last person I spoke to (independent mechanic) suggested it was maybe the manifold and that I should work with the dealer to have it replaced.

    Just wondering if you have any additional thoughts or suggestions for how to navigate a dealer discussion in order to get this fixed? Without a fault code the dealer seems flummoxed on how to proceed.

    Thanks again for your time and feedback!

    M.

  29. reza
    |

    let me know if we remove the valve cover on 2009 jetta 2.0 turbo with timing chain,timing chain need to be retime,since the cover is holding the camp shafts down?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Anytime you work with timing components and take them apart you should verify the vehicle is timed correctly

  30. Dennis
    |

    I own a 2008 Jetta 2.0 TSI. I recently experienced problem with starting. It cranks but sometimes fail to start. I replaced the battery and the Spark Plugs. OBD2 reads P0321. i watched your video replacing the Crank Sensor on a 2.5 engine. It is not the same location as the 2.0. My manual says it’s behind the Oil Filter Canister but I didn’t find it there after removing the canister. Where is the Speed Sensor located and what provides the speed input during start. Thanks.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      There also was a software update for the ECM on this issue. You might want to contact your local dealer.

  31. Rob
    |

    I have a 2010 Tiguan 2.0T which had the timing chain tensioner fail causing a valve to pop off – new engine needed. What range of year’s engines will fit as replacement? Is there a year you recommend? I can get a 2015 engine, but I read that it fits ’12-’15. Thanks for the info you provide.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Why do you need an engine instead of just replacing the valves/ cylinder head?

      • Rob
        |

        My local non-dealer VW specialists recommended that course of action. They can put in a new engine updated with better tensioner (for $9K), or have another shop put in a used engine – they won’t work with a used one. For the Tiguan, would replacing the valves and head require engine removal, or can that be accomplished with the block in-place? I also need to replace the rear main seal while I’m at it. (I saw your ad on Humble Mechanic’s YouTube)

  32. Randall
    |

    Hey guys,

    Love the page and how yall are so in depth with helping us with our needs. I have a problem child ive been fighting for about 2 months now.

    It all started about 7 months ago our 09 gli with the 2.0t tsi motor blew its clutch out. Before this happened I had a check engine light for Crankshaft Position Sensor.. The car ran good but did take a long time to crank..

    At the time we had 2 other vehicles and Im a mechanic so decided to let it sit until we paid the car off then could buy a performance clutch and I could start my modifications to the vehicle. Well I got a Spec stage 2 clutch with aluminum flywheel. That was a huge mistake on its own. I wish i had taken more time to read up on this because the first install the the clutch wouldnt release. After 1 week of bleeding and buying unnecessary parts thinking it could be the issue i ended up taking it all back apart and sending it back on my dime for them to send me the stuff back to reinstall. It now works and they said the pressure plate was bent was the issue but sounds like a diesel because it rattles so much from the lightened flywheel they are telling me. I have a buddy with the same exact clutch in the same car and his sounds nothing like mine.

    Needless to say the car is now mobile but this is where my questions come in. Once I went to drive it was hard to keep running. I now have the following codes.

    -Crankshaft/Camshaft position sensor
    -Multiple Cylinder Misfire
    -cyl1 misfire
    -cyl2 misfire
    -cyl3 misfire
    -cyl4 misfire

    I replaced my crankshaft positioning sensor with a OEM one. Issue was still there, I then replaced the camshaft with still nothing. When the car starts up it sounds and idles perfect, once it warms up is when it starts acting crazy.
    About 3 months before it was parked all 4 coil packs where replaced with new and the Intake was replaced all from VW under warranty so im sure its not these causing any issues but I have seen weirder things in this type of work so who knows.

    Any recommendations? HELP 😉

    Thanks again!!!
    Randall

  33. Wilson
    |

    Hi I have an Audi A3 2011 and I’m having problem with the engine. When I start the engine it comes on but after 5m diving my the car start to failling I feel like on of the coil is not firing and the EPC light comes on. What can be the problem?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Im sorry thats not enough info to offer any actionable advice. It sounds like you should bring your vehicle to a VW/Audi specialist for diagnosis.

  34. pv
    |

    2010 golf starts for couple seconds then engine cuts out had diagnostic said it s enginge control module has this got b programed in by vw its 1.4 tsi

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      If the question is can a non dealer program the ECM. Generally no that is only something a dealer can help with.

  35. John McAdams
    |

    Paul,
    Thanks for your time. I have owned a couple of the 2.0 turbos and like them. I purchased new and traded before 100,000 miles.
    I have a teenager looking for a first car. We are looking a a 2008 Eos 2.0 t 6 speed manual. I also have owned dodge with a hemi and a v6 honda. Both of them reached the very high mileage before major problems the honda over 200k dodge 195000
    with proper service can I expect that of the 2.0t . I know it requires a little more cost to service. I am also looking at its current service history. Just want to hear from some one who has seen several. I do a lot of my on service. thanks

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Above the common problems are listed so if youre aware of these issues you should be in OK shape. The key is taking care of your timing chain tensioner.

  36. Jenn
    |

    Hi there,

    Bought 2014 VW JSW 2.5L (36K miles) in Oct. 2015. Warranty expired at 38K.

    Started having problems with the battery 40K miles, took it to local VW dealer who tested battery and found no issues.

    Had to jump the car 5+ times in next month; replaced dead battery through AAA.

    Thought everything was good, put another 3K miles on it, EPC light came on and put car into limp mode.

    Mechanic said it was a throttle body problem, and noticed that the previous battery had leaked battery acid all over. Codes: P0221 and P2101.

    Replaced throttle body, 500 miles later, EPC light came back on and car went back into limp mode. Mechanic said throttle body was defective and exchanged it with new throttle body through VW.

    Took car home and within a week, the ABS and power breaks went out. Check engine light came on. Mechanic said it was gas cap.

    After 300 miles on 3rd throttle body, EPC came back on and had to tow home. Mechanic’s Repeat Codes: P0221 and P2101; New Code: P2404. Mechanic drove car and car’s throttle idle is surging now.

    Could this all could be related? Any idea on what to do next?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      First it sounds like you might have someone who may not be qualified to work on the car working on it. Most check gas cap lights are related to the http://deutscheautoparts.com/evap-purge-n80-valve-06e906517a.html. In regards to your other issues its tough to say. You should really consider having the vehicle diagnosed by a dealer or a VW specialist shop as they can give you more details on whats going on.

      Sorry to hear about your troubles.

  37. Aaron
    |

    We have/had a 2011 Tiguan. Unfortunately, the mechanic said our car suffered a catastrophic engine failure. He said the timing chain broke. Perhaps, he was explaining it to me in layman’s terms. Anyhow, the options he gave us are, sell it to the junk yard for scrap and parts or have him replace the engine. I love your site and it seems like our Tiguan has had all of these issues, but I’d like your opinion. Thank you.

  38. Aaron
    |

    Will the 2013 Tiguan TSI CCTA fit in a 2011 Tiguan with an existing 2.0 TSI CCTA. According to the mechanic, “the head is shot.” The 2013’s are about half the price of the 2011.

  39. |

    I have a 2011 Voltswagon Passat cc turbo that it ran out of gas and now it won’t start. My computer is not giving me any codes? Can you please help me be able to figure it out?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      I would check to make sure the in tank fuel pump is working.

  40. Justin Nicolosi
    |

    Hi, I love your site!

    I am having problems with my Fuel pump control module on 2012 VW CC. I see that this is basically just a ‘plug and play’ part. The dealer wants $465.00 to repair it!!! I saw your how to video to replace the fuel pump itself on youtube, but no video on replacing the control module. Is this hard to do for someone with minimal to no mechanic skill? I would like to buy the part on your site and put it in myself and say forget the dealer. Can you please comment? Thanks!

    Justin

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      The fuel pump and module are under the back seat on the passenger side. This is not too tough to install but we dont have a DIY on that at this time.

  41. |

    2012 cc tsi
    Girlfriends car has noticeable rapping/tapping noise from top of the engine
    Are valve shimming or lashing a common
    Issue with this engine ?
    She drives the car about 500 miles a week
    It has just under 75k
    Any info is greatly appreciated

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Its not likely to be a lifter that is the issue. Pretty much all VW and Audi engines use self adjusting hydraulic lifters. They generally would not be shimmed. If you have a noise you are concerned about you should consider bringing it to someone to have it looked at. Also take a look at the timing chain tensioner info linked above. Its pretty important.

  42. mustapha
    |

    isnt the oil pressure switch a common fault issue on the mk6 gti tsi engine?

  43. Vicente
    |

    Problem= MISFIRE CYL 2 AND 4.

    Work performed:
    -changed coils
    -changed sparks
    -changed places of fuel injetor (2 to 1 and 4 to 3)
    -removed all carbon deposit in valves
    -manifold gasket ok, evap valve ok, wires ok, etc etc etc…
    AND
    made cylinder leakage and does not appear difference….

    in the Autel scanner block 15 and 16 misfire in cyl 2 and 4 run faster….

    The opinions of the VW experts:

    1- UCE
    2- seat of cylinder head (not seat valve)

    and now????

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Sorry but this is not something I can offer more insight on. You have listed all the right steps to run through. You really need to bring this to someone who is an expert at diag and based on your email youre in Brazil which we cant offer you any recommendations.

  44. quarter
    |

    Hi i have a 2008 vw gti turbo,,,,it has aprox 80k mi on it ive had it for almost a yr no problems up until this point. So the car was sittin n when i went out to start my car again it started but the power steering light came on in red i then went to put it in reverse and lost all sense of power steering like.i had manual any ways i.pulled to side of driveway went to shut it off went.inside came back out and my car.cranked no start automatic thought was the battery i jumped it w a booster let it sit to recharge running came back outside the car died sitting there jumped it again started it and took it to autozone to.check battery and alternator voltage /amperage needless to say when i jumped it before i left the same light came on but in yellow i drove bout five miles no probs. I figured if battery bad maybe its triggeringthe steering to not work because voltage was too low.so autzone tests my battery n the voltage kept dropping but read good battery my thought.alternator but i installed new.battery.anways went to test.alternator n their.machine said voltage was still to low on battery to further an alt test they wouldnt let me use voltmeter to double check everything so i then took.it to.oreillys auto where they ran both test battery volts kept droppin but the car was runnin fine like nothin happened knock on wood so he proceeded w starter and alt test, the alternator said my voltage regulator is failed so i bought a new alt but i havnt installed it yet cause its still running fine and havnt had any probs since …so my question is if the volatge reg is bad n failes on the test how is my car still running in perfect condition how is the alt still working is it slowly going out i figured if it said it failed itd be done for but its still working i know the battery is charged volts still fluctuate but it hasnt drained increasingly so could their machine reading be wrong or should i just go ahead n replace alt or take it back beings i havnt had problems since its a 200$ alternator….but id hate to take it back and it completly go out…would really appreciate ur feedback please and thank u

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Most likely it will fail again and become more frequent. Problems generally dont correct themselves. Hope this helps.

  45. Jack
    |

    Thanks so much for maintaining such an informative forum. I just received some bad news from my local mechanic and maybe someone here can offer advice.

    We have a 2009 Audi A3. For the past few years we’ve had random warning lights going off, including those for low tire pressure, faulty headlamps, various low fluids, and ABS brakes. At different times I’ve noticed decreased performance, but nothing that has made the car inoperable. I brought the car into the dealership under warranty multiple times. Sometimes they found nothing wrong. Other times they found that sensors were faulty. They were replaced, but a little time would pass and the warning lights would go back on. Once they found a cracked head gasket and it was replaced under warranty.

    The car has 70K miles and is now out of warranty. Some of the sensor lights still go off, but we’ve learned to live with it. Lately the car has been going through far too much oil—nearly a quart per month. I’ve been topping off the oil each time the low oil light has come on. About a month ago the check engine light came on.

    I brought the car into my local mechanic today. They did an inspection and ran a full diagnostic. It turns out there are two oil leaks that will cost nearly $2K to repair. However, they also found that the computer appears faulty. When they hooked up the car for the diagnostic they first read 18 errors. They reset and the new reading came back with 6 errors. They reset, did a test drive, then reread and came back with 9 errors. In short, they think the computer needs to be remapped or replaced and this might have been the problem all along.

    They can’t provide either service so I’m going to have to visit the dealership. The car is no longer all that valuable so we don’t want to pay for costly oil leak repairs until the computer problem is sorted and we find that it’s worthwhile to do so. I think a computer replacement would be very expensive. Remapping would be cheaper, but we’re already stinging from the potential $2K oil leak repair.

    Do you think it would be worthwhile to try some of the inexpensive off-the-shelf oil leak repair products such as additives? How would you approach the computer problem?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      unfortunatley to me it seems like the car was not properly diagnosed as those very vague and blanketing descriptions of issues. My first piece of advice would be to take have the vehicle properly diagnosed by either a dealer or a VW/Audi specialist. This would give you a much more clear picture as to what is going on.

      Hope this helps

  46. George
    |

    we have a 2010 passatt wagon and the clamp on the turbo (exhaust side) has broke. Do you know if it can be fixed? Been to 2 places and both said we need a new turbo. No one knows if the part can be fixed. Any thoughts?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Im sorry I dont know what youre referring to. If you send us pics we can take a look.

  47. alkrd
    |

    Hi.
    I had my 2011 tiguan engine fail due to the timing chain tensioner failure.
    I am waiting on my mechanic to see if I can get away with just kit you sell or I need an engine swap.
    My question is do you know if an engine from new we year tiguan 2012 to 2105 can be used to replace a 2011 tiguan ‘s CCTA engine ?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      You almost certainly have bent valves so you will need more that just the update. Once the tensioner has failed its likely too late. In regards to the used engine, you shouldn’t need a whole engine unless the original engine in the vehicle was poorly maintained. The Bent valve kit with the cylinder head(listed above) should suffice. I generally recommend not going with a used engine unless you have to. When getting a used engine you dont know how well it was maintained causing a big question. Also most used engines will have the old tensioner which means you could end up in this same situation again.

      If your vehicle was well maintained its a much better idea to fix your engine and install all new parts on it instead of a used engine with high mileage parts on it. Hope this helps.

  48. stuart
    |

    Hi

    I bought a vw scirocco 1 year ago. It’s a 09 plate with full service history and 49k on the clock.
    Whilst driving home the other night my epc light came on and it lost all power and broke down. I wouldn’t start so I took to my local garage which they checked it over. They came back with the news that i need a new engine as my number 3 piston had melted. Does this require a new engine or can you rebuild it? Are These engines known for this?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      If you melt a piston generally you would replace the whole engine. It has likely done too much damage to rebuild.

  49. Deantay Hayes
    |

    Hey Paul, I have a 2009 vw cc and when I push the key in it takes about 5 or 6 seconds to start up. And also my car is making a loud clicking noise while idling but when I’m driving it goes away?.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      You will have to have someone take a look at the car and diagnose theses issues.

  50. Samuel
    |

    Hi Paul,
    Thanks a lot for being of much help to us here. I drive a Volkswagen Golf MKV 1.4l TSI. Year of manufacture 2008, has done 74000 kms. Has been running well but recently started having problems picking up whenever i want to accelerate.I can press the accelerator to the floor instead the vehicle deccelarates. I realized when its going downhill it goes smooth but uphill it completely refuses to go. The only way it picks is if I press the accelerator slowly , then the car also picks up slowly. Diagnostics was done and nothing showed up, so my mechanic thought would be the fuel filter and we had it changed but nothing has changed. Spark plugs had been changed earlier on have not even done 3000kms. what could be the problem or what do i need to check.
    Thanks in advance for your help.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Im sorry thats not a US model so we cant offer much advice on this one.

  51. Kristen
    |

    Hi Paul,

    We’re a little stumped figuring out whats leaking from our 2011 VW Tiguan. The leak is coming from the front passenger side, under the engine. We had the head gasket replaced about 2 months ago and the coolant levels have been fine ever since, so we ruled out coolant as the issue. The leak was clear with a very light brown tinge to it, and a slimy feel. The initial leak was pretty big, leaked from the front all the way past the trunk, now its just an occasional drip. Our second thought was the break fluid so we checked that and it seems to be at a good level. The only trouble we’ve had with the car that i can note is that about a week ago we had come pull when accelerating after a light. It chugged a few times but since then its been running ok. Any suggestions as to what it might be?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Im sorry Im really thrown off by the “leaked from the front all the way past the trunk” sounds like you should have someone take a look at the vehicle to determine what substance you have leaking.

  52. Brendan
    |

    Hi,
    I just bought a 2011 golf gti, I find that mostly when in 2nd or 3rd gear between 2000 and 3000 rpms that the car seems to feel like it almost cuts out but at the same time gives a jolt of power, almost as if the turbo just kicked in. Only happens when slowly accelerating to those rpms or trying to stay around that range, but it’s worse when the car is cold. If I am below 2000rpms and come onto the gas a bit harder it’ll also do that jolt a couple times, making the car shake somewhat. For the most part though a harder acceleration the car is really quick and seems to be running fine. No engine lights or anything either It’s a bit hard to explain how it happens but overall I’m just wondering if this is normal or an issue you’ve heard of before.
    Thanks

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Sounds like it could be a misfire but you will need to check out if thats true. You will need a vagcom to do so

      • Brendan
        |

        Wouldn’t there be a light on if it was a misfire though? Also really noticed today the issue is much worse when engine is cold as I tried to pass someone and it was really shaking. 5 minutes later it ran great

  53. mark ventrone
    |

    son has a 2010 VW CC. check engine light has been on and periodically the car shuts down. it was also running sluggishly and we are replacing plugs. 85k on car. he bought it 1 yr ago. will take ur thoughts. many thnx Mark

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Mark we would need to hear more to offer anything more. What fault codes does it have?

  54. Jonathan
    |

    My question is about high oil consumption in the 2.0T TSI.

    I have a 2013 GTI with the 2.0T TSI CCTA engine. (Note that this engine is from VW’s EA888 engine family.) I am the second owner of the car. The first owner had it on lease over three years, so took good care of it, had it dealer serviced, with oil changes approximately every 6,000 km using synthetic oil. He also only put on 17,000 km. The car is now 3.5 years old, and has only 20,000 km. So this is a low mileage engine and well cared for (as far as I can tell).

    In the six months that I have owned it, I have seen quite high oil consumption, about 1 litre / 3000 km (1 quart / 1750 mi). However, this is within the VW spec which is 1 litre / 2000 km (1 quart / 1200 mi) – which is frankly a ridiculous spec.

    I have researched this a bit on the internet. Many other MK6 GTI owners complain about the same problem, but it is not universal as some say they have quite low oil consumption.

    However, there was a very widespread oil consumption problem amongst MY 2009-2011 Audi vehicles which had the 2.0T TFSI CAEB engine, also from the EA888 family. The problem led to a class action lawsuit which has forced Audi to replace the engines in the affected vehicles in the USA. Apparently the problem on this engine has to do with the design of the pistons and scraper rings – the oil doesn’t drain away from the scraper ring properly on the down-stroke, so oil gets forced past the scraper ring where it is burned in the combustion chamber.

    The Audi CAEB engines appear to be very similar to the GTI CCTA engine that I have. So I am suspecting the same problem is causing the high oil consumption in my car.

    Do you have any information about this, or if not, any thoughts?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      The spec does seem pretty nuts but we dont make the rules. Oil consumption was not wide spread on VW TSI engines but I have hear some people mention it. You might considering looking at the PCV valve to see if its bad which could make your consumption worse. About the Audi engine issue that was an issue with piston rings and was only on CAEB engines as far as I know. You issue is likely unrelated.

      • Jonathan
        |

        Yes, from reading a bit more about the CAEB engine problem, I understand the issue was the rings (either compression, scraper or oiler rings, don’t know which). But for some reason Audi has redesigned not only the rings, but also the pistons and connecting rods to fix the problem.

        I am speculating that the same rings / piston / connecting rod design might have been used in many of the 2.0 litre EA888 engines, including in the CCTA design that I have. From looking on Wikipedia all the 2.0 litre EA888 engines have the same bore, stroke, and compression ratio (except one). So I would think that if the rings / piston / connecting rod design are the same as the CAEB they would likely have the same oil consumption problem.

        Do you know how likely, or not, it is that the rings / piston / connecting rod design would be the same on the CAEB and CCTA engines? And do you know of a website where I could check this?

  55. Harry
    |

    I have read that parking the car (2.0 tsi) on a hill and leaving the car in gear and letting the car roll back slightly can cause the car’s timing to changed slightly. Have you heard of this and is this even possible? I am wondering if it would be best to put the car into neutral instead of park?

    Thanks

  56. Steve
    |

    I have a 2009 vw tiguan. I turn the key and nothing happens. All lights come on . Lights do not DIM when you turn the key. Will not take a jump .

    If I put the car in neutral then back to park it will start

    Thanks for any help

    Steve

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Tough to say could be an issue with the selector on the shifter that is not telling the car its in Park. More diag is required.

  57. Lorenzo Schaffers
    |

    Hi Paul Barrett

    We recently bought a 2013 VW CC 2.0lt TDI DSG Bluemotion.

    Recently on two occasions the car goes into limp mode when driving and accelerating . The dealership where the car is at now still cant find the problem. A ERROR : Start-Stop appears also the coil light appears. The first time it happened the engine management light stayed on.
    My first experience was when i was driving down a straight road accelerating fast and suddenly no power……revs goes up but no power.
    Second experience ….i was driving on our highway at 140-160km . I came to an intersection to stop . when the lights turned green I accelerated fast to overtake a slower car , the car went straight into limp mode….
    Car still at dealership…..What do you think could be the cause.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Sorry this is not a US model so We cant offer details on that model.

  58. Sardar Amin
    |

    Hi Paul,

    I have VW Passat CC mode-2011 and I have observed two problems,

    1-Engine oil consumption is high. I have topped up two times after 2000 km.
    2-Engine switched off automatically while running during waiting for traffic signal.

  59. Glenda
    |

    Yes I have a problem with this 299 code undergoing turbo booster on a 2007 2.0 engine passat how to fix that r will ot stop running anytime im riding

  60. Josh
    |

    Hi Paul,
    I just got a used 2010 VW Jetta 2.0t tsi wolfburg edition a month ago, and I wanted to make it faster. I am wondering if you can help me and give me advice what should I upgrade first? I’m really hoping that you can help me. Thank you so much.

    -josh

      • Josh
        |

        Thank you Paul.

      • Ed
        |

        I want to know what could it be on my 2011 Vw cc 2.0 I drive for like 20 til 30 minutes and it says oil pressure what it could be i ask when I stop the car my two fan be blowing hard.. What could I do

        • Paul Barrett
          |

          You should not drive the car like this. Driving a car with an oil pressure issue could damage the engine.

  61. Josh
    |

    Hi again Paul Barrett,

    I’ve been planning to buy intake for my 2010 VW Jetta 2.0t tsi wolfburg edition. I’m wondering which one is better between apr intake or unitronic intake, or something else.
    I hope you can help me and give me advice again. Tah k you so much

  62. |

    Hi Paul,

    I have a 2012 A4 2.0 t and getting code p0299 for turbo underboost. Mechanic replaced the diverter valve today and the light came back on a little while ago on the drive home. Have done smoke test to check for leaks and they said no leaks. What other probable cause would you think?

    Thanks,

    Paul

  63. Kelechi Anyanwu
    |

    Hi Paul,
    I have a Volkswagen CC 2010 medel, lately i have been having drop in Oil level, which makes me to always top up, but today i notice little smoke coming out of the exhaust. Please what could be the problem and how to resolve it.

  64. Dean Whale
    |

    This has been the best read i have found on volkswagen. I purchased a 2011 golf gti Japanese import into New Zealand 5 days ago. Having 2nd thoughts on purchase engine light is on.

  65. Sydney Young
    |

    I own a VW 2009 Tiguan, and have had every single issue listed here. Gotta love first year models. Now the engine light is on and the crank sensor needs to be replaced. Wish I had seen this article before we bought the car…

  66. John
    |

    Hi, my 2010 vw 1.4 Tsi, has issue with engine lighting coming on intermittently. It had timing chain, new clutch pack, cam sensors replaced less than 1 year ago (by vw) . I can clear the code by doing the key on, press left button press right time button thing. Car runs completely fine. No loss of power. Any light you can shed? I fear another expensive vw repair bill

  67. lucian
    |

    hi I drive a golf 5 2litre fsi 2006 model…..battery I bought about 6 months ago so its fairly new…I need some clarification and or advice on some strange things my car has been doing recently… I work away at times and the car stands at my place for a week or 2 at times…carbon builds up around the battery terminals and at the base of the battery which I try to wash away with boiling hot water, but what happens is the car loses power from the battery as if the battery is flat but is not..it sends some weird signals to the computer box as if it has some sort of virus which makes the lights go dim and fades away, my car at times doesn’t want to start, I have to remove one of the battery terminals and put it back for it to reset and regain power to start….also at times while driving some lights flash on the cluster and I get some beeps as well, which then cuts out the power steering for like a second or 2..i was told because of the carbon build up on the battery it sends strange signals to the computer box which now has to be reset…..is this accurate?

  68. SETHU PRASANTH RADHAKRISHNAN
    |

    Hi Paul,

    I have 2008 JETTA 2.0 TSI with DSG (Wolfsburg edition). I’m about tell you is unresolved problem for long time. My car is in perfect condition (no check engine lights or anything ) It’s only very annoying problem is that my car hesitate when accelerating from complete dead stop (It takes about 2-3 sec pause) and runs fine after that. I have to go around NYC for everyday work this only car I have that makes it more worse.

    Is it Turbo lag? Its normal for turbocharged engines.

    Do I have to live with the car for its rest of life?

    Any advice on this issue will be great help

    Thanks

    Seth

  69. Ariel Gonzalez
    |

    Hi, recently i ran a scan tool on my 2013 volkswagen cc and i got some fault codes for my crank shaft position sensor, i ordered the new sensor to replace it but i cant seem to find where the crank shaft sensor is located on the 2.0L turbo tsi engine, if you could share some knowledge about this with me it would be greatly appreciated thank you!

  70. Tebza
    |

    I have a golf 6 tsi 1.4 petrol engine 2011 model which have a problem,when it idles for 10minutes and the turbo becomes hot it cuts itself and the temperature gauge goes up and thought maybe a water pump might have an effect on this but not sure so what could be the problem?

  71. Igor
    |

    I need help trouble shooting the cause of a P0236(OBD-II Trouble Code: Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance) code scanned by an aftermarket OBDII scanner. I’ve read numerous threads and you seem to be the best source to ask my question… I just need a step by step list of parts I should be checking and in what order to teouble shoot the cause.. I read this article and I will start by removing the factory DV valve and looking for damage…if its not the DV valve, what the next part I should look for and so on..2010 VW Passat 2.0T DSG trans.

  72. John
    |

    My wife has said that when she is either from a stop making a turn such as in to an intersection or a u turn there is little or no response from accelerator. Initially I thought maybe a safety feature to keep turbo from going nuts. Today I witnessed it right hand turn on to a road and she tried to accelerate as she moved in to the road and car was doing max 2 mph and a car came barreling down the country we road we live on and I am yelling at her to go but nothing.

    I am trying to fid is this a design flaw, something to just get looked at or odd situation- this is third time since we bought it new in 2015 and there doesn’t seem to be a way to consistently repeat it.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      You should leave your vehicle with the dealer to let them diagnose it

  73. Lauren
    |

    Hi,
    Hope you can help. I have a 2013 Tiguan. The last few days my coolant has been doing weird things. The light came on and I checked it and it was low so topped it off. Came on again the next day and checked it immediately – it was near empty! It had been parked on my driveway overnight and there is no visible signs of leaks on the cement.

    Filled it up, drove to school about 20 miles, light came on again!. Took off cap, it appeared to depressurize and coolant came back into the reservoir, just below the minimum line. Drove home, waited till late evening, checked it and near empty again with no signs of leakage. Checked the oil – levels are fine and looks normal. I know nothing about cars, and dont know what it could be. Cant afford to take it in at the moment. Any help would be very appreciated! Thanks.

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      You likely have a leak you should keep an eye on it

  74. Donald Headrick
    |

    Paul,

    Good day! I hope this finds you doing well. I have a 2010 cc sport. I’ve had continual fuel injection problems. The symptoms are, check engine light comes on, the car starts to putter. They’ve cleaned the carbon, and checked everything else. My old mechanic would put foam injector cleaner, which had gas, and blow it out. That always seemed to work for about 5 or 6 months and it would happens again. My last VW dealership cost me over a $1000.00 and it was a disaster. I asked them to fee the cleaner through and it seemed to help. About 5 months ago. Here we are again. Your thoughts…

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Sounds like you need to have the vehicle properly diagnosed.

  75. Kyle Salsbury
    |

    2012 GTI. Cold start it struggles. After it’s been driven and warmed up, doesn’t seem to be a problem. Is this a common problem?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Sounds like you have a carbon build up issue

      • Kyle Salsbury
        |

        Thank you I never thought of that. What would you recommend for a carbon cleaning?

  76. Jad
    |

    Hi Paul. Bought a 2010 Tiguan last year and luckily bought extended warranty with it. It has 2.0 TSI engine. It only has 82,000 kilometers on it. The engine leaked oil around the gearbox area. They changed the seals there. Then another leak around the shaft area and they changed the shaft and the seals, and now it is at VW dealership again for another leak in less than 2 months. I think now in the area below that holds the oil. Is this normal for a car that has low mileage? Are these good engines by VW? The old VWs seem to be better? Why did they switch form the 2.5 to the 2.0 T engine?

  77. SETH
    |

    1st gear low (1400 – 2000) rpm hesitation. Take a pause and catches up.

    Note: Runs fine in all gears any rpm except on 1st. No fault codes.

    Car: 08 JETTA 2.0 TSI with DSG (Wolfsburg edition)

    Thanks

  78. Brane
    |

    Hello
    I have an audi a4 2009 avant 1.8 tfsi
    Changed the spark plugs ignition coils the whole air box with flaps and the car is spiting fire when acelerating. The fuel pressure is good , non leakage of air or anything how can i test the fuel injectors?

  79. |

    Wow I thought that the TSI was an improvement on the FSI motors,

    Seems like the First Gen TSI motors are just as riddled with problems as the older FSI motors, hell I think they might even have more problems !!

  80. Alan
    |

    Just purchased a Scirroco 2.0 tsi with 91k miles recently and diagnosed with a throttlebody issue after inspected with the EPC and engine management light came on regularly with loss of power sluggish and lower rev almost cutting out in idle mode…can this be related to anything else or is this a common fixable issue?

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Has the throttle body been replaced?

      • SETHU PRASANTH RADHAKRISHNAN
        |

        Why are you not replying to any of comments? What the heck!

  81. Carlos
    |

    Hi i have a 2009 tsi volkswagen passat
    I want to know where the crankshaft sensor is located
    I been looking for and i cant find it
    Lmk thanks

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      This should be on the Front of the block near the trans.

  82. Nick
    |

    So, I have a 2009 Tiguan and I was placing the intake manifold back on and could not for the life of me get the support bracket on no mater what I tried. Is the bracket really needed. It seems like the manifold is quite secure with the 9 bolts that hold it to head and hose for air intake/throttle body pretty secure as well. I don’t see how the manifold is going to move. Is there a concern about vibration over time?

    Thanks

  83. |

    Hi, I have a 2009 CC with 107K miles. Bought it new, and the car has been pretty darn reliable, only had a couple issue recently. Now my CC got my wife stuck at the store, she parked and when she went to leave it wouldnt start, acting like it was out of fuel. It got towed home. Started next morning and idled for a few. Tried to drive it, it went a mile and shut off, then would not start acting as if it was out of fuel.
    MIL Codes –
    Monitrs
    0 Inc
    Misfire
    Fuel
    Comp
    Catlyst
    Evap
    02 Snsr
    02 Htr
    EGR
    P0138
    P0141
    P0171
    P0037
    P0036

    Thanks for any help

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      Im sorry this sounds like you might have a few things going on here and you will need to address them.

  84. Brant
    |

    We just bought a used 2012 Tiguan for our daughter and she has had the low oil pressure light come on twice. Once last week, which we had it towed in to have it checked and the oil level was good. The second was today after she drove for approximately 25 minutes on the highway. It has 88K miles on it. Engine is the 2.0 TSI. The oil level is good and has not changed.
    What could be causing the issue?

    Thanks,

    • Paul Barrett
      |

      You should bring this to someone to have it properly diagnosed.

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